Monday, September 30, 2013

Back in Salone




Post by Lara and Kevin

26 September 2013        

We arrived back on Sierra Leonean soil yesterday, after 24 hours of travel from Freetown to Cincinnati, 7 days at home, and 24 hours of travel back—it’s been a whirlwind week for sure, and we’re incredibly grateful that we were able to make the short trip, spend time with loved ones, go to Stephen and Jen’s wedding, and have awesome things to eat and drink all the while!  We took some notes as we were traveling and wanted to point out a few of the things we noticed during our first venture outside of Sierra Leone in over 15 months:


  • Potable tap water is awesome! (And it’s everywhere!)
  • Electricity is, in the words of our good friend Matt Hoza, “not a big deal” across the pond. You can plug things in almost anywhere!
  • High speed internet is double awesome! Also, some cities in the US have free wi-fi. For the whole city. Apparently this is not an abnormal thing. For us, it’s mind-blowing.
  • It’s really hard to un-learn the Sierra Leone handshake.
  • We frequently felt cold during our trip, which we expected and dealt with fairly well. What we didn’t expect was how dry we would feel. Here in Salone, we almost never go anywhere with air conditioning and the humidity hovers between around 80 and 100%, so we’re used to feeling sticky and sweaty, and we were not fans of feeling dry and papery instead.
  • In the 15 months we’ve lived here, we’ve gotten used to all the dogs looking the same (they’re all some form of medium sized brownish mutt).  The variety of dogs in the US is super fun (and kinda strange).
  • Lara did not get carded for buying alcohol at all on this trip, and Kevin only got carded once—apparently we look older than we used to!
  • If you’ve been to sub-Saharan Africa before, you may have noticed that it has a distinct smell—a blend of palm oil, fish, smoke, sweat, maybe some exhaust fumes or burning plastic mixed in there…etc.  Well, we stopped really noticing that combination of scents months ago, but it’s apparently still there—the flight attendants on the flight from Freetown to Dakar to Brussels fragrance-bombed the airplane twice (as in, walked down the aisles spraying air freshener at the ceiling). Twice!
  • Call us sheltered, but we loved the airplane food.
  • We were a little worried that our family and friends would think we were too skinny after our time in Salone—especially since we published a photo or two that made us look skinnier than we actually are. Most everyone we saw was happy to see that we haven’t wasted away to nothing in our time here. Lara’s Uncle Tom put it best: “You look good.  You don’t look bad. I was afraid you would look bad”. 
  • We ate as many available-in-Ohio fruits and vegetables as we could in the week we were back—strawberries, raspberries, cantaloupe, beets, bell peppers, etc.  Now that we’re back in Salone, we’re filling up on bananas, guava, “plums” (not what you think), cucumbers, and other available-in-Salone fare. 
  • Believe it or not, we were more uncomfortable after about 15 hours on airplanes from Cincy to Brussels to Dakar to Freetown with our own seats and video-on-demand than after 5 hours in an un-air-conditioned mini-bus from Freetown to Bo sitting 5 people across with two backpacks piled on our laps.  I guess you get used to things.
  • One thing we forgot until we were back in rural Salone was how much influence the sun has over our lives here and how little influence it has over yonder.  When the sun goes down here, we get settled in for the night; whereas, when we were spending time in Ohio and Kentucky, we didn’t always know whether it was daylight outside.



Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Photo Post! Pave the Way

*Posted from Ohio! It's great to be back, though short-lived- we're here for 1 week.

Post by Lara, photos by Kevin

13th Sept 2013

During the lull between training the new PCVs and the start of a new school year, we decided to spend the better part of a week creating our very own board game (on rice bags, because they're cheap).  We titled the game "Pave the Way" and the object is to pave roads in Sierra Leone to connect different cities together.  The game is based on Ticket to Ride, an awesome board game in which you lay railroad tracks to connect different cities in a given region (there are different versions for the US, Asia, Europe, etc).  We added a twist to our own game in the form of extra cards that you can purchase and use during a turn to spice the game up a bit.  Here are the steps we took start to finish:

First things first: tracing a map of Sierra Leone onto a plastic bag so I could draw a grid on it and enlarge it.

Next I drew the big grid on our 2 rice bags
Done with the outline of the country! Now to label some major towns and cities...
Here's our completed game board.  If you're familiar with a game called Ticket to Ride, our game is played much the same, but instead of laying railroad tracks you're paving the roads.  Wishful thinking? Um yes.
When the sun goes down and you still have work to do, you work by headlight!  It's not so bad really.


This is me trying to figure out what to put on the "destination" cards.


Pavement cards come in 5 colors and WILD.  We ended up writing the name of the color on the cards later because blue/purple and red/orange were confusing.  Also this makes playing Pave the Way an educational game that promotes literacy! Go us!

Since they color bled through on the color cards, I made a stamp out of a discarded flip flop.

Homemade stamp in action

Then for the back of the destination cards, Kevin made a stamp that's shaped like Sierra Leone

The cards on the playing surface

Each player gets pavement "tiles" to claim the roads they're paving.  We sent the neighbor girls into the bush with the assignment of coming back with several colors of flip flops. Voila!

Cutting pavement tiles from discarded flip flops

Finished pavement tiles! Each player gets 45 pieces

Scoring tokens.  The two big ones are "poda podas" loaded down with cargo. The smaller ones are motorbikes
In our own twist on the game, we created "Eh Bo!" cards that offer extra moves or bonus points.  These require three matching color cards.

The first 8 "Eh Bo!" cards we came up with.  We've altered a few since this and added a few others.


Flip flop strap turned police road block


And here we are playing for the first time! 


Thursday, September 12, 2013

Going to America!

Post by Lara and Kevin

You may have heard by now that we're about to take a short trip back to the states for a wedding.  Well, we decided to write this post to prepare our friends and family for some odd behavior we might exhibit during our little trip.  Below are some pointers.

  • We will probably frequently forget that running water is potable, and may get very excited upon remembering this.
  • If we see you while we're back, we're likely to try and shake your hand...just go with it.
  • We may not want to eat rice, since rice makes up about 90% of the calories we've taken in since arriving in Africa...but we'll need to eat rice, since rice makes up about 90% of the calories we've taken in since arriving in Africa.
  • We may not remember that proper etiquette in the US dictates that you flush the toilet after every use.  If so, and you're the next one into the bathroom, sorry ya!
  • We are incredibly likely to insert a plethora of "ya"s, "oh"s, and "mm"s into daily conversation.  Hope that's not too confusing.
  • Going on with the proper etiquette, we may or may not just sweep food that has fallen off the plate onto the floor in hopes that some animal will eventually eat it.  We're really going to try on this one...
  • If we see bananas or oranges [or most any tropical fruits], we'll probably get really confused/dismayed about the fact that the bananas are yellow and the oranges are orange. Everything is picked green here (and still more delicious than the yellowest American banana you've ever eaten-- mark my words!).
  • If you are unfortunate enough to accompany us to a restaurant, we sincerely hope you have half a day to waste and the patience of Job. We're used to places that are offering two to three options at a time, and still won't bring your meal for an hour plus.  US restaurant menus might bring on panic attacks.
  • Under no circumstances should anyone allow us to drink more than 2 alcoholic beverages in a sitting.  Seriously-- we are lightweights in the extreme. That being said, Kevin will do a happy dance any time anyone offers him even a sip of beer that's not Carlsberg, Heineken, "strong stout," or Star.
  • We're probably going to feel cold no matter what the temperature is, since September in Ohio and Kentucky is pretty much always chillier than "the surface of the sun," and that's what we're used to.
  • Lara is fairly sure that if there's a bowl full of apples at the hotel, she will try to eat them all.  Be forewarned.
  • If we randomly start smiling or laughing like crazy people, it's probably a reaction to seeing or remembering something we haven't been around in over a year, such as the cereal aisle at a grocery store or cars following the laws of traffic or sidewalks that aren't strewn with litter.  Give us a minute and we'll try to pull it together.



Thursday, September 5, 2013

So You Want to be a PCV – Reflections a Year In



5th September 2013 

Post by Lara

After a year of volunteer service, we’ve had a lot of conversations about what it is that we’re doing here.  Between our family and friends at home, our neighbors and co-workers in our community, our fellow volunteers, and ourselves, there are a lot of ideas floating around about what it means to be a Peace Corps volunteer.  Below are some of our thoughts on the matter, written primarily for anyone who is interested in or planning to join Peace Corps. 

Peace Corps will probably change you more than you change the world
Of course Peace Corps volunteers (PCVs) want to change the world—why else leave everything you’ve ever known for 2 years to go live in the developing world?  I don’t want to be a class-A cynic and tell you you’re not going to change the world, but the reality is that a lot of changes you inspire won’t happen during the 27 months you’re here, and you may never learn about them. We’ve heard countless stories about volunteers returning after 10, 20, 30 years and finding out that the students they taught are now valued members of their community and count their PCV as one motivator that got them where they are—that’s awesome!  But sometimes you don’t get to hear those stories.  Sometimes you have to trust that those stories are out there.  What you will take home with you, though, is that living and working and assimilating in a new community is going to leave you a different person.  Which leads us to the next point…

You may experience an identity crisis (or two)

Whether you’re 22 and fresh out of college or 65 and looking for an adventure post-retirement, or anywhere in between, you are an individual.  You have your own ways of defining yourself—quirks, likes, dislikes, skills, fears, hopes, etc.  Most of those things that define you, though, are not going to be the same in a foreign country.  The way our friend Krystin put it was that when someone arrives in-country for Peace Corps service, many of the things that make you you disappear, and what’s left is not a complete person.  Maybe you still have your spunk and determination, but your fashion sense and addiction to licorice can’t be sustained here.  Or maybe your pragmatic and head-on way of solving problems in the US workforce doesn’t get things done in your new environment.  Whatever it is that disappears is going to get filled in (like Kevin’s addiction to binch akara, fried bean sandwiches, taking the place of his enjoyment of fast food in the states).  And whoever you become once all those gaps get filled in is going to be, for all intents and purposes, a new person.  You will get a new name, have a new house, choose to spend your money on different things, pick your battles when it comes to disagreements with co-workers, etc.  And you might find yourself feeling disconnected with the person you used to be or who your friends and family expect you to be.  Rest assured, other PCVs are experiencing this shock also—and they’re likely the best supports you’ll have in talking through it.  

Though we’re a year from moving back to the US for good, we already expect to have a similar identity crisis when we get back.  The nice thing about 2 years in Peace Corps is it gives you ample time to figure out who you are and who you want to become, but all that time in a foreign country adapting to cultural differences and learning a new language will undoubtedly make it tough to go back.  Again, I’m quite sure most PCVs have similar experiences here and can help each other figure it out.

You may not change in the ways you expect

Before we started Peace Corps, I used to tell people, “I know it’s going to change my life, I just don’t know how.”  Well, I was right—so many things about me and my goals and my outlook on life have changed, and not necessarily in ways that I foresaw.

During our mid-service conference in July, I got into a conversation with some fellow PCVs about how we’ve changed in the last year, and one thing came up that I certainly would not have expected a year ago—living here has not made us less materialistic.  I guess I should note that in some ways it has—I am living a fulfilled existence without a dishwasher, TV, or indoor lighting.  But I also am more interested than ever before in having a smart phone, living somewhere with public Wi-Fi, owning a car, and having enough of an income to be able to make a difference in Sierra Leone in the future.  

There are other unexpected changes to be considered—some PCVs lose a lot of weight during service, while some gain.  Some develop new interests, or lose old ones.  Friendships change; people at home buy houses and have babies and go to grad school, and you’re generally doing such incredibly different things that it’s hard to draw an accurate comparison. That’s ok! PCV life is different, and if it’s what you want to do then do it.

Peace Corps is almost guaranteed to make you a more responsible person

Depending on what country you get sent to, the specifics will change—but being a PCV requires you to take personal responsibility for your health, safety, and welfare in ways that go far beyond anything I’ve experienced before.  Especially if you’re coming right out of college, it can be a shock—because universities take a lot of responsibility for their students these days—having clinics on campus, RAs who check in on you now and then, professional counselors, social workers, and friends who will get you through tough times or at least try to point you in the right direction.

Peace Corps requires a lot more from you to keep you healthy, happy, and safe.  When you’re sick, you’re expected to take your temperature and make note of your symptoms before you call the doctor.  When you’re sad, you might not have anyone nearby to say, “hey, do you want to talk about it?”—which means you may have to recognize when you need to talk to someone and be the one to seek help.  When you’re in the city and out with other volunteers, you will all be looking out for each other, but you also have your own responsibility to remember that you’re not in the US where there are cops outside of crowded night clubs and people willing to call the police if they hear a disturbance.  

Being a PCV means being willing to stand alone in many ways—you may be the only American in a 20-mile radius. You may be the only person willing to say something when project money goes missing or gets spent on something it shouldn’t.  Of course, being a married PCV is a little different in that we are often alone together, but it can still be a challenge being the only person your spouse has to vent to.  

Everyone has their own idea of what you’re here for

This is a biggie, because one thing every PCV wants is to be loved by their community and admired by those at home.  The fact is, though, some people will expect things of you that you can’t (or won’t) deliver.  One fellow PCV’s principal told her upon meeting her that her priority would be to build him an office.  I’ve had many fellow teachers approach me to help them procure a computer.  Some schools want PCVs to do so much busy work that it clouds out what we deem the important stuff—teaching kids, promoting healthy habits, and developing our community.  When it comes to host country locals misinterpreting your service, it can be totally unimportant or very detrimental to your service. When it’s the ladies in the market mistakenly thinking you’re a nurse when you’re a teacher, don’t sweat it.  When it’s your principal mistakenly thinking you’re here to raise money to pave a parking lot…you may have to bring in back-up.  Either way though, you can expect a lot of misunderstanding around what brought you here, what your goals are, and what you’re capable of.  It’s all part of the package.  

You may find you have issues with those you left behind in the states,  too—friends and family will be so proud of you; they will admire your bravery; they will applaud your selflessness, and if you’re anything like Kevin and me, you might feel uncomfortable hearing those things.  It’s kind of like not being able to see the forest for all the trees—some days I feel downright cowardly [sent the neighbor girl to the market for me because I can’t handle speaking Mende today]; some days I feel selfish [didn’t share one little crumb of the cinnamon rolls we made ourselves]; some days I feel like other people glorify what I’m doing here [getting a note that says, “Lara, I’m just amazed at all you’re accomplishing” when I just turned in my students’ grades and the average was a 55].  At the end of the day, my family and friends are wonderful to help me see the big picture—but it can be hard to hear the praises on those days when my shortcomings are taking center stage.  

It’s also hard to deal with friends and family when you think they’ve got the wrong idea of what you’re in Peace Corps for.  My best advice, with regards to every bit of encouragement and praise and misunderstanding that you receive from home, is to appreciate the positives and play down the negatives. You yourself no doubt had the wrong idea of what volunteering would be in some ways—don’t be too hard on your family and friends for making similar errors.  

Peace Corps service will be what you make of it

I mentioned in some previous posts that we have official goals we’re working toward, such as improving students’ test scores and helping teachers adopt new teaching methodologies.  We also have personal goals, like making our house a more comfortable place to live, keeping our chickens alive, learning the local languages, and catching up on pleasure reading from the last 10 years.  Being a PCV means not always having control over where you work, who you work with, where you live, and many other aspects of your life—but it also offers you a wide-open platform as far as designing and implementing projects, working on your own personal development, and defining your service in the ways you choose.  Ultimately, we are happy to be here and happy to have another year left in our service—but along the way our goals and areas of focus have shifted and morphed and changed to suit us. I think being a successful and satisfied PCV is all about making your experience, and that’s what we’re trying to do. (For more thoughts on how Peace Corps service has inspired change in me, see my post from earlier this summer titled “A Bend in the Road”)

Monday, September 2, 2013

Camping vs. Peace Corps

Post by Lara and Kevin

23 August 2013

This post came about after Kevin’s family’s trip here, during which Kevin’s mom, Jane, likened our time in Salone to an extended camping trip (many, many times).  We will admit that in some ways our time here is not unlike camping, but there are a lot of ways in which it’s not even close—below is our not-terribly-exhaustive list of similarities and differences.

Ways in which being a PCV is like camping for 2 years:

  • We have to purify all the water we drink by filtering or boiling.
  • We shower outside (kind of) with a bucket.
  • We cook over an open fire or small kerosene stove.
  • Many of the roads and footpaths we use to get around here are rocky/uneven/more like hiking trails than roads and sidewalks.  Salone falls well below the standard of accessibility we’re used to in the states.
  • We get to see lots of insects all the time.
  • Occasionally we find ourselves confronted with nearly impassable roads (Winter Backpacking ’12 anyone?).
  • We tend to walk most everywhere; ergo we have to dress for the weather.


Ways in which being a PCV is not like 2 years of camping:














  • We have jobs, and a place to be most mornings.
  • We have a house with two bedrooms, a living room, a big pantry, two verandahs, and 4 additional rooms including one with a toilet and one with a drain at the side that’s quite amenable to showering.
  • We have household chores to do which include sweeping, mopping, dishes, feeding animals, and laundry.
  • We have a couch and a coffee table.
  • We get paid! (Albeit not a lot by US standards, but more than most people get paid to go sleep in the woods)
  • Generally people go camping to “get away” from the world and have some alone time with nature.  We frequently find ourselves confronted with a line of people staring at us like we’re the strangest thing they’ve seen all day (we probably are), and that includes both small children and adults.  I don’t remember a time in my pre-PC life where I was gawked at by onlookers while on a camping trip.
  • Bowtie Thursday and headed to work!
  • We are required (by Peace Corps) to turn our cell phones on at least once per day to receive any urgent information.
  • We are occasionally required to have access to the internet (which is not an easy thing to accomplish, by the way) in order to file regular reports on our activities.
  • We have to file regular reports on our activities.
  • We are expected to wear clean clothes and wash dirt off our shoes anytime we are away from home, and especially when teaching.  This would be hard enough in the states where we have nice frills like washing machines, stain sticks, and tumble dryers, but here in Salone it requires some serious dedication.  
  • We iron our clothes.
  • Sierra Leonean culture dictates that we dress modestly; that includes having our shoulders and knees covered most times we’re in public.
  • We are attempting to learn 2 languages right now, both of which are required to some extent to get around in our town.



























In conclusion, we would invite our friends and family to consider these reasons and the facts that we're busy learning how to live in a new culture, teach our friends how to read, raise our students' test scores, and promote the health and welfare of our community during our time here.  Instead of likening it to "camping," perhaps think of it as a trip back in time, by US standards.  Peace Corps certainly does attract a lot of outdoorsy-type people, but believe me when I tell you that camping for two years would be a WHOLE LOT easier than what we're up to.