Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Gbessay Sabi Kuk! Soft Pretzels


Post by Lara

29 Jan 2012

Perhaps it’s the culture shock or perhaps it’s the heat, but odd food thoughts like to jump in and out of my head these days. I find myself thinking of walking down the cereal aisle at Kroger, sipping peppermint milkshakes at Steak ‘n Shake, or enjoying a coney and root beer at Skyline.  One of those odd ideas stuck around for a while— I really wanted a pretzel. A nice, salty, slathered-in-mustard pretzel like they sell at baseball games. Or maybe one with butter and cinnamon sugar like the ones in the mall. The possibilities abounded, and the odd thought finally became persistent enough that I devoted a few minutes of my precious internet time to look up a soft pretzel recipe.  The recipe below is adapted from Alton Brown’s pretzel recipe and worked surprisingly well in our little outdoor kitchen over a charcoal fire.  I’m sure it’ll go even smoother in a fancy American kitchen with nice amenities like a sink and a real mixing bowl and stand mixer with a dough hook attachment.  One word of advice—don’t skimp on the baking soda in the boiling water. I’m pretty sure this is what gives it a real pretzel taste.

Salone Soft Pretzels [Adapted from Alton Brown’s soft pretzel recipe]

Ingredients
  • 1 1/2 cups warm (110 to 115 degrees F) water
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 package active dry yeast
  • 4 ½ to 5 ½ cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon butter or margarine, melted
  • Vegetable oil, for pan
  • 5 cups water
  • 1/3 cup baking soda
  • 1 large egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon water (optional)
  • Pretzel salt (optional—we just sprinkled regular salt on top)
Directions

Combine the water, sugar and salt in a large bowl [the original recipe says to combine them in the bowl of a stand mixer] and sprinkle the yeast on top. Allow to sit for 5 minutes or until the mixture begins to foam. Add the flour and butter and stir until combined, then knead in the bowl until the dough is smooth and pulls away from the side of the bow.  Knead for 5 minutes more [if using a stand mixer, use the dough hook attachment and mix on low speed until dough pulls away from the bowl, then change to medium speed and knead for approximately 4 to 5 minutes]. Remove the dough from the bowl, clean the bowl and then oil it well with vegetable oil. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, a lid, or a towel and sit in a warm place for approximately 50 to 55 minutes or until the dough has doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Brush 2 half-sheet pans with the vegetable oil. Set aside.
Bring the 5 cups of water and the baking soda to a rolling boil in pot.

In the meantime, turn the dough out onto a slightly oiled work surface and divide into equal pieces. Make whatever shape you want with them.  We chose to make pretzel “sticks” for simplicity’s sake.
Place the pretzels into the boiling water, 1 by 1, for 30 seconds. Remove them from the water using a large flat spatula. Return to the half sheet pan, brush the top of each pretzel with the beaten egg yolk and water mixture if you are using it and sprinkle with the pretzel salt. Bake until dark golden brown in color, approximately 12 to 14 minutes. Pretzels cook best if you turn them over halfway through baking.  Cool at least 5 minutes before serving. 

Salone serving suggestions: serve with mustard (Le 8000 at Sabbagh in Bo), melted “butter” and cinnamon sugar, or Laughing Cow cheese.


Our custom-built oven complete with a metal door that we have to lock in our house at night, for the thieves.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Convenient Banking!

Here are some photos of the commute to our nearest bank, about 16 miles from our house.  We're making the trip this weekend-- we'll be back with some more in depth blog posts after that. Have a great weekend!





Thursday, January 10, 2013

Na So Yu De It Orinch [This is how you eat an orange]



Post by Lara, Demonstration by Kevin

10 January 2012

We arrived in Sierra Leone at the very tail end of mango season (early June). After that, rainy season came into full swing, during which we were able to buy freshly picked pineapples, “plums,” and bananas, which seem to be available sporadically throughout the year. Toward the end of rainy season guavas and papayas ripened and became available. November brought the dry season, and with it the first oranges and grapefruits.  Orange season continues for a while into the dries, hopefully bringing us all the way to mango season again.  Because we showed up here at the polar opposite of orange season, we didn’t eat an orange for the first several months we were here, and we didn’t see anyone else eat them either.  We knew to be on the lookout, though, because a few of the resource volunteers who helped with training informed us that Sierra Leoneans do not eat oranges the way Americans do.

It’s an interesting realization, showing up in a country you’ve never been to before, believing wholeheartedly that what you have in common with the people here as fellow human beings is enough to bridge any cultural gap that exists between you, only to find that this entire nation eats oranges the wrong way. Or you’ve eaten them the wrong way your whole life, which is an even more unsettling thought.

The fact is, we never realized we were eating oranges the wrong way. We grew up with two distinct acceptable methods for eating oranges: the first, peeling it with your hands or a knife if the peel is stubborn, and breaking the segments apart, eating them one by one; the second, each orange cut in quarters and served piled high in a cooler at halftime of a middle school soccer game (bonus points for making a “mouth guard” out of the peel).  The Sierra Leonean technique is not either of the above.  It’s a lot more like turning the orange into a juice box. Though we were skeptical at first, I have to admit we’ve since come to realize that this is in fact a pretty great way to eat an orange.  We may never go back, at least not until we have children old enough to make orange mouth guards at soccer games.  Allow Kevin to demonstrate:

 First, cut the outer peel off with a knife- you’re basically cutting the bitter colored part of the skin off and leaving the tasteless pith.  Try to leave as much peel intact as you can, because if it’s too thin it’ll break when you’re trying to squeeze the juice out of it later.

Next, cut off the top. 

Now start to squeeze the orange while drinking the juice out of the opening you’ve cut. It helps to squeeze a section at a time.  As seeds come out, spit them as far as you can—just like watermelon seeds.

Keep squeezing the juice out of the orange and drinking it until there’s none left to squeeze out.

If you’re really dedicated, you can now turn the orange peel inside out and eat the rest of the orange.
Finally, give the inside-out orange peel to your tiny neighbor and tell him it’s a hat.

And that, my friends, is how you eat an orange.

Saturday, January 5, 2013

Le Wi It Grevi [Let’s eat Gravy]



Post by Kevin

January 5, 2013

Living in the developed world, it can be easy to forget where our food comes from and all that has to happen in order for you to have dinner on the table every night.  This can be largely driven by the fact that there are places in America you are able to drive up to, order food, and have it appear before your eyes within 5 minutes.  Here in Sierra Leone, very few places like that exist (see post titled “Fast Food”). 

Because Lara and I are passionate about the taste of fresh food, we’ve always had a garden wherever we lived (even if that entailed investing a fair bit of cash in a large number of quality pots so we were able to put the plants on the sidewalk outside of our apartment in Columbus).   This year has been quite a different experience because we have a new climate to battle, as well as a completely different variety of insects.  We’ve taken to asking our 12-year-old neighbor about when to plant things and what the best tactic is for planting and all in all it seems to be going pretty well.  As it stands now, there are two different times you plant a garden and two very different battles you have during the growing period.  Right now it is the beginning of the dry season and the first time we are able to plant.  This obviously is the first major problem with planting now, the ground is drying out and we will not seen much rain until March.  So the first step is to find a place to plant that is near a water source.  Luckily for us, we have a well that is about 100 feet from our house.  This well was dug by an American Engineers Without Borders group and we have been assured that the well will not go dry during this season due to the fact that it is 80 feet deep.   We water our plants twice a day, carrying one bucket full of water about 50 feet from the pump to our little garden patch.

Spoiler alert: this garden came to almost nothing. Our house is not on prime agricultural land, apparently.

The next time for planting is just after the first rain.  This makes for relatively carefree gardening because you hardly have to water at all, but once August comes around, the rain is almost daily and comes down in buckets.  To avoid your plants getting washed away, you need to put in a lot of work at the outset by making tall mounds with drainage ditches before plant. 

As it stands, our garden is no where large enough to sustain our daily intake of food.  We travel to the market almost daily where we are able to get a wide variety of food (see Post titled “A De Go Bay Bay”).   The great thing about this place is a good majority of the food comes from local farmers or fisherman.  Because the majority of the people that live in our district are farmers, it is very common to be given food as a gift.  This is where Gravy comes in.  
There is an NGO that is just down the road from us called 21st Century African Youth Movement (AYM) that we’ve become very close friends with.  For Christmas/New Years, some person gave the organization 3 large male chickens.  This was too much for the few people that work there, so the founder decided to give us one for Christmas.  Also for Christmas (from our host family), we were given a yam (not the American kind you are thinking of.  This particular African yam was the size of a basketball and weighed close to 10 lbs, and tastes more like an Idaho potato than a sweet potato).   Since it is just the two of us here in our little African house, we decided to share all this wonderful Christmas food with our neighbors today. 

This of course means that the male chicken given to us (we decided to call him Gravy) had to be killed.  The last time we ate our own chicken, we had a small neighbor boy come kill it so I could see how it was done here.  This time I decided to do it myself.  The way that they slaughter chickens here is nothing like what I pictured when you talk about it in America.  I always pictured a chicken with its head over a stump and a person that uses and axe to chop off the head.  Then that chicken runs around getting blood everywhere and causing a great mess.  Here you must be more cautious and leave as little blood as possible so you are not to attract hawks (possibly vultures—we’re not exactly sure of the rationale).  First thing you do is catch the chicken (easier said than done sometimes, but the neighbor girls are always happy to help).  Next you take the chicken away from the house so your neighbor doesn’t have to watch (she raises and eats chickens, but still doesn’t like to watch them die).  You dig a small hole on the ground where you plan to let the chicken drain.  You then take off your sandals and put the chickens feet out so you can stand on them.  Next you pull their wings back and you step on them with your other foot.  You basically hold the chicken down in the arches of your feet so not to hurt the chicken.  Next you put your finger and thumb on the chicken’s beak to hold it shut and you pull his head toward the sky to expose the neck.  You then quickly make the kill and let the blood drain into that small hole that you had dug.  It takes a minute or two for everything to calm down.  Lastly you cover the hole and bring the chicken over to be boiled, plucked, burned, and then cooked. 

Once Lara and the neighbors cleaned the chicken, they cut it up and put it in a frying pan with palm oil, peppers, onions, and tomato paste (this is called “gravy” here in Sierra Leone—hence the name we gave our unlucky rooster).  This is served on top of cut and boiled yams—a very delicious, locally-grown meal.

It’s a wonderful thing to be so closely integrated with the food that we eat and it makes you appreciate all the work that has to happen in order to have a wonderful chicken dinner.  We expect it will be something that Lara and I will take with us back to America where we hope to one day raise our own chickens.  
Thanks Gravy!

Breaking Down the $1.25 Per Day


Post by Lara

5 January 2013

We listen to the BBC radio a lot here, and because 2012 was an election year, Sierra Leone featured rather prominently in African news, as did the reminder that Sierra Leone is home to a significant population of people living on “less than US $1.25 per day” (In 2004, the estimate was that 70% of the population lived below this line, according to the CIA fact book. More recent figures seem to be closer to 50%).  $1.25 per day is the internationally accepted threshold of extreme poverty, according to Global Basic Income Foundation’s website, which gives an overview of how poverty is defined worldwide.  The first time I heard this figure was sometime in the 1990s when I believe the threshold was $1.00 per day. I remember at the time not being able to wrap my mind around how a person can live on such a small amount.  Now that I am living and working in Sierra Leone, undoubtedly crossing paths with people who live below that threshold every day, I have a better understanding of what it means to live below the international poverty line.
Lots of fresh produce at this "supermarket" -- but there's no frozen food section.

I should mention before I delve into the financial realities in Sierra Leone that Gallup’s most recent numbers for daily consumer spending in the US are between $70 and $80. This figure does not include buying a house or car or paying recurring utilities. I’m not sure whether similar spending is included in the “$1.25 per day” figure, but either way the contrast is still evident between average daily spending for Americans and Sierra Leoneans.  

$1.25 is roughly equivalent to 5500 Leones (or Le 5500). According to the Global Basic Income Foundation, this figure includes not only the amount of money available to people to spend, but the value of what they produce, which is to say that subsistence farmers may have significantly less cash in hand because the value of the products they raise is included in the figure.  Pair the Le 5500 with the fact that most households that we know have at least 5 members, and the total is Le 27,500 daily. To illustrate the approximate cost of making a meal here, below I listed the ingredients of cassava leaf plassas and rice, a common dish.  In our observations, families tend to make rice and plassas once per day, and eat it in several sittings throughout the day. In addition to this, they may make pap (hot cereal) or eat fruit, gari (dried cassava root), or peanuts throughout the day.  The breakdown below shows how much you would pay to buy everything for cassava leaf in the market, though most families will raise crops, fish, or sell palm oil and not have to buy all of the ingredients from someone else.

Product
Price per unit
Units
Total
Rice
Le 1000
5
Le 5000
Palm oil
Le 2000
1
Le 2000
Cassava Leaves
Le 200
1
Le 200
Fish
Le 2000
1
Le 2000
Beans
Le 500
1
Le 500
Ground Peanuts
Le 1000
1
Le 1000
Spices
Le 700
1
Le 700
Total:


Le 11,400

The price of palm oil can be an economic indicator

As you see, the estimated cost of cooking a meal for a family of 5 is under Le 12,000. This leaves about Le 15,500 for the cost of everything else in a day—healthcare, education, clothing, transportation, etc. 

I was not able to locate a breakdown of consumer spending in Sierra Leone, though I did find a 2010 breakdown of US annual consumer spending, and found that US consumer spending is roughly 48% housing, 13% food, 16% transportation, 6% healthcare, 5% entertainment, 3% clothing and services, and 10% “everything else” (http://www.netpaths.net/blog/where-does-all-our-money-go/). Solely based on my own experience and observations, I feel that a summary of where Sierra Leoneans spend money would show a higher percentage spent on food and a lower percentage spent on housing and healthcare.  
How much would you be willing to pay for a seat in this vehicle?

When comparing lifestyles in the US and Sierra Leone, one thing to note is that most goods and services cost a lot less here than in the states. For example, going to see a live soccer match usually costs Le 1000-5000 ($ 0.23-1.12). Going to watch a movie or a televised soccer match costs Le 1000 ($ 0.23).  A 350 mL bottle of Coke or Fanta costs Le 2000-3000 ($ 0.45-0.68).  A sandwich of bean patties with onions on it or two fried donuts costs Le 1000 ($0.23) Most people I know do not pay rent for their housing, and many people built their houses themselves with little to no money (handmade mud bricks plus “free” labor from family).

Beyond the difference in the spending power of a dollar there and here, “utilities” are highly uncommon here in Sierra Leone. In Freetown, Bo, and Kenema, power grids exist and consumers can have their houses connected and pay for their usage. Just about everywhere else that I know of, electricity is provided by individual generators run by gas or diesel, solar power systems, and batteries.  Sewage, trash collection, and running water are not available in most places in the country either.  Even when these services do exist, many places in the country work on a pay-as-you-go basis [think of cell phones that you can add minutes to and use until the minutes are done. That’s not only how cell phones work here but also internet and electricity from the grid].  What this means is that families may choose to top-up their card for electricity near a holiday or when they are going to throw a party, and run the power until the credits are gone, and then wait to buy more credits for a while. 

Living without electricity to your house may sound incredibly difficult, but most daily activities here do not require electricity, and battery-powered lights and radios provide enough power to work at night and listen to the local radio station. Small businesses and NGOs run generators and charge a fee to plug in your cell phone, DVD player, computer, or car battery.  This way, even without a grid providing power to your house, you can own and make use of these products.  Also, so far the coldest temperature we have recorded here was 68 degrees Fahrenheit, and while the highest temperatures are nothing short of miserable, Sierra Leoneans tend to rest during the hottest parts of the day and do most of their work in the early morning and evening, when the heat isn’t as oppressive.  Thus, heating and air conditioning are not considered necessary.
Without street lights and lit-up houses all over, the skyline sure is dark.

Another point of disparity between US consumer spending and Sierra Leonean spending is that refrigerators and freezers are not a common household appliance, and the ones that do exist are often used to keep bugs out of stored foods.  The rare refrigerators and freezers that are plugged in are used mainly to keep drinks cold or foods frozen for transport before being sold. There are no goods available in our town that require refrigerating or freezing. The only dairy products are powdered or canned milk.  Meat is frozen until sold or dried, and fish is either freshly caught or dried.  Think of your average American shopping list and remove everything that needs to be kept cold, and the list as well as the cost of the groceries has shrunk significantly.

Ultimately, I find it difficult to think in terms of comparisons between my daily spending habits here and in the US, because so many things are so different.  Here, the cost of local goods and services is so much lower we sometimes feel that local business people must be losing money in their endeavors, and at the same time the price of imported or non-local goods can be so exorbitant that the majority of the population wouldn’t even consider buying them.  A lot of this discrepancy, it seems, comes from a lack of interest in non-local goods and a disinclination to allow the price of local goods to rise with time.  For example, rice is Le 1000 per cup. Last year, it was the same. Next year, it’ll be the same.  Ten years ago, it was Le 700 per cup, and people are still complaining about the rise in price.  Undoubtedly, the profit margin of people selling rice is lower now than it was when the price first climbed from Le 700 to Le 1000, but it will probably have to drop to the point that sellers are losing money before the price will rise again. 
It's possible only some of these goods bring in a profit for this local seller

As another example, we watched the neighbor girls make butterscotch (toffee candies) to sell in the market. Curious as to what they were getting out of it, we did the math. They put Le 13,000 into buying supplies, and then spent 3 hours making the candies. They sell them for Le 100 (the smallest coin in wide circulation) each, which requires at least one girl to spend a day walking through the market selling. If they sell all of the candies they made [which they inevitably do not], they will make about Le 15,000 at a profit margin of Le 2000 ($ 0.45). Divided by 4 girls who spent a collective 20+ hours in the endeavor, each girl makes about 25 Leones, or half a penny, per hour.  Unfortunately, if they go to the market selling their candies at double the price, they will likely not sell anything because other girls are selling candies for Le 100 each. 

We are not personally living below the “$1.25 a day” threshold, though I think that we could do so in Sierra Leone and still have enough to eat. It would mostly affect our ability to consume “luxury” items such as soft drinks, beer, snack foods, and pricier goods in the market like lobster and chicken.  Living below $1.25 per day would also significantly impair our ability to travel—from our town it costs a minimum of Le 8000 to pay for transport anywhere, significantly more to go to Bo or Freetown.  From what I can tell, the difference between living below the poverty line and above it is mobility and consumption of non-local goods.  We spend very little money when we stay in our town, but we always indulge a bit when we’re in Bo or Freetown, buying imported goods and eating Western food in restaurants rather than cooking rice for ourselves (and yes, that means ice cream).  Also, we came here with some electronic goods that might be considered prohibitively expensive here—our solar cell phone/iPod charger that cost US $100, our $200 netbook, iPods, and kindles.  Once you have them here they cost about as much as a cell phone to charge and maintain, but few people we know would be able to buy these goods outright, even at the cost in the US which is usually less than what the same product would cost here.

As I said before, the first time I learned that a significant portion of the world’s population lives on such a small amount of money each day, I couldn’t fathom how it was possible.  Now after living in one of the poorest countries on Earth for several months, I see people getting by every day, and I have a better understanding of what poverty means. Here in my community, poverty does not mean starving to death or going without clothing or shelter. Poverty means not having money to travel, pay school fees, pay for internet usage, afford reliable health care, or buy books.  It does not mean not having a cell phone, but it might mean not having enough money to buy minutes or charge the battery.  I find myself oscillating between two thoughts: one, that people in my community who live below the poverty threshold can make that $1.25 go a lot further than someone in the US would be able to; and two, that living below that threshold is incredibly limiting to my fellow community members as far as their upward mobility is concerned.  Simply put, one can get by here on less than $1.25 per day, but one cannot thrive on so little—to be able to educate your children, afford a generator or solar system to power your house, travel to other cities to buy and sell goods, and pay for more than the basic food and household goods that the market offers, one needs more than $1.25 daily. 
Subsistence farming tends to help secure food here, but relying on your own harvest brings risks

Recently, the BBC has been reporting that Keep a Child Alive, an international charity devoted to ending poverty and protecting children in poor countries, has released a report stating that with international support, extreme poverty could be eliminated within one generation.  For my part, I hope this is an achievable goal, and that my students, neighbors, friends, and family here in Sierra Leone have a brighter future ahead of them.

Below are links to the sources I consulted writing this article. I am in no way an expert on international poverty or economics.  The article reflects my own opinions and observations, and not necessarily those of any of the below references.